Quality needs time.
To have a bespoke suit made is to be part of a ceremony. It means to discover the pleasure to dedicate to ourselves moments of attention and detail. However, we must know what we want.
To what measurements must we pay attention? What length is best for a jacket? How do we understand the fine job of a tailor?
These are just some questions to which only few people can answer.
Following is some useful information to bear in mind when dealing with a tailor or buying a made to measure suit.
The real luxury is the time in which we dedicate to ourselves.
Size measurements
JACKET
- Shoulders, point to point.
- The circumference of the chest.
- The circumference of mid waist.
- The length from the breastbone to the navel for more classical high waist trousers. If instead the preference is to wear low waist trousers the measurement required is from the breast bone to the wore trouser.
- The length of the arm from underneath the arm to the wrist (inseam).
- The circumference of the biceps, the forearm and the wrist.
Pant
- The distance between where usually the pants are worn and the crotch (rise).
- The circumference of the bottom (seat) and of the waist (waist).
- The length of the leg from the ankle to the crotch (inseam).
- The circumference of the leg in five points: upper thigh, thigh, knee, calf and ankle.
How to choose a fabric
The choice of a fabric is an important step.
Every suit has its own fabric to be worn: we have to choose correctly as to make it unique, exclusive and sophisticated, ''as you are''.
- For a man who wants a garment for ceremony, or any other special occasions: precious fabrics with light and dark shade effects made by prestigious yarns.
- For a man who likes a sporty look: a new flannel, warm with winter appeal and at the same time, light and easy to wear.
- For a man who enjoys the classical look: elegance, prestige, colors and sophistication. A distinctive style in wearing ''classic'' tradition.
- For high style and fashion: creativity and refinement, fabrics that recreate the atmosphere of traditional fabrics in a new and original way.
- For a man who prefers luxury style: prestigious and top quality fabrics, rich blends. ''Suits, which reflect the exclusivity of a choice''.
- For a man who likes to wear a jacket: comfortable, classical or trendy fabrics. For a garment always perfect, every time different.
- For the individual who desires a complete look with a coat, soft and rich fabrics that enhances the beauty of the suit, with a touch of warmness and elegance.
Choosing the correct fabric gives ''soul'' to a tailored suit.
Suggestions for proper suit results
topBefore starting a bespoke suit, several additional factors must be considered:
So that the tailor can sew the suit to your precise body dimensions, measurements take place. The measures are unique to your body. It is important to keep relaxed and in a natural posture during the fitting process as to allow the tailor to note how the suits looks on you.
The external pockets of the jacket can be sewn or open accordingly to the taste of the individual. Optimally, to leave them closed if it is a ceremonial suit as to not alter the silhouette of the suit. It is more acceptable for a sport jacket to have ''open'' pockets rather than ''closed''. This is because the sport jacket silhouette is more casual and comfortable.
The length of the jacket is not standardized but follows the fashion style and personal taste. This indication must be given to the tailor.
If you wear cuff links, you must tell the tailor when measuring you so they can adjust the length of the jacket sleeves accordingly. The length of the sleeves have to be slightly shorter to not cover them.
The choice to have high or low waist style is dictated by personal taste and comfort.
So that the tailor can easily adjust your measurement, always let him know if you will use belts or braces.
Trouser cuff’s are proper for almost all styles of pants. Exceptions are evening wear and the tuxedo.
How to understand a tailored jacket
topOnly when the jacket is ready to be ''tried-on'' can you feel the refinement.
How to understand a tailored pant
topNow the suit is ready. The suit falls perfectly on the body and the mirror reflects the image of luxury.